Wales has many roads. A few are wide, fast and classed as motorways. Many are are ordinary bidirectional truck roads with bends and corners, Wales does corners exceptionally well. But we have even more single track roads that lead to secret places. The narrow single track road to Mwnt leads you down a lane with high banks on either side covered in flowers and topped with a hedge to stop the sheep escaping from the fields. But the journey is worth it. Although it is on the Natioonal Trust map of places to go, not many make the effort. And I’m not complaining about this in anyway.
At the end of the lane is a sight worth waiting for. A small, white washed church squats at the top of the cliff, it’s low walls and simple bell tower clinging seemingly sunk into the ground to protect it from the winter gales that lash the west coast of Wales.
The current building dates from the 13th or 14th century, but there has been a church here for much longer. Dedicated as the Church of the Holy Cross (Welsh: Eglwys y Grog) is an example of a medieval sailor’s chapel of ease.
Mwnt, Welsh for Mount, is a landmark along the coast. In 1155 it was the site of an unsuccessful invasion by Flemings and their defeat was long afterwards celebrated on the first Sunday in January as “Sul Coch y Mwnt”. This graphic name, Sul Coch means Red Sunday Is a reference to the blood shedon that day. It is reputed that the bones of the defeated invaders are still found occasionally under the sand when uncovered by windy conditions even today.
After mooching about the chapel, climbing up to the top of Mwnt and watching the Dolphins doing what Dolphins do below the cliffs we spent the rest of the day on the beach. You really have to try to visit this secret and special place.
But there was even more excitement to come. Well for me at least, Aunty was marching ahead to get the best spot on a deserted beach. As I was starting down the path to the beach a Common Lizard stopped right T my feet on the path. I’ve been trying to get a photo of a lizard for years. I seen them but never had y camera, or they had disappeared before I could get the camera ready. This time there was no cursing as it sat there posing for me before ambling off into the undergrowth.
Then I got even more excited. A flash of blue/green caught my eye off the path. A quick look and blow me, but an Emporer Dragonfly. Absolutely fantastic. OK I hear you say, he must lead a simple life. And yes I do, but I love it! I think this chap may have recently emerged from the water. The right wing isn’t fully expanded yet, and sclerosis process, or hardening of the wing and body casing isn’t yet complete. Otherwise I am almost certain it wouldn’t have allowed me to get so close. I think we must go back.
1 thought on “Mwnt. Welsh 100 – No 34”
I went to Mwnt with my parents in the 60s. We were holidaying nearby. All I remember is standing on the top with the wind so strong I could lean into it and it would hold me up. After reading this I’d rather like to go back.